Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee familiar award-winning venues. However, nestled prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung corner of northern London.
The little Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. The honour has made the proprietors totally surprised.
“I’m totally astonished,” says a proprietor, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that led to their modest shop achieving such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.
This compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its former character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.
In the end, it is all about the food, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.
It is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.
The wrap is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.
Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.
When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and less sickly flavour.
Remarkably, this modest spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.
While two people could readily leave this place full for less than £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.
The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.
“In my view what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”
This view is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.
In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not work at fancy establishments. “I am really proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.
Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.
“My mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.
This restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this gastronomic achievement.
Lead game designer with over a decade of experience in creating immersive slot games for global markets.